Glossary

Aglet
The plastic sheath at the end of a shoelace that makes the lace easier to thread through the eyelet holes of the shoe.

Aniline Leather
A type of leather in which high quality hides have been treated with aniline dye to create a delicate, soft, supple finish. Aniline dye colors the leather while keeping the natural variations blemishes on the surface visible.

APMA
The APMA stands for the American Podiatric Medical Association. It is comprised of America’s Premier Foot & Ankle Physicians. The seal was created to inform both physicians and consumers about products whose quality, safety and effectiveness allow for normal foot function and promote good health.

Approach Shoe
A grip-soled athletic shoe meant to aid rock climbers on the path to and from the climbing area.

Arch
The high, curved part of the sole of the foot, located between the ball of the foot and the heel. This term can also refer to the raised area of the insole of the shoe, which is meant to pad and provide support for the arch of the foot.

Arch Cookie
A foam insert placed under the insole, designed to support the arch

Arch Support
Stiffening effect on the area of the insole built up and strengthened to support the arch of the foot, or a similar support which can be inserted into the shoe separately.

Athleisure Shoe
Athletic-inspired, trendy footwear meant for casual, urban wear.

Athletic Shoe
Athletic footwear meant for performance of a specific sport. Basketball, crosstraining, golf, hiking, running, tennis and walking are some examples.

Achilles Tendon
The Achilles tendon is the tendon which connects the three strongest flexor muscles of the leg to the foot. This tendon is a common source of pain in runners and other athletes. Achilles tendonitis, tendonosis and rupture are some of the common problems encountered with this structure.

American Orthopedic Foot & Ankle Society
A national medical specialty society of orthopedic surgeons who specialize in foot and ankle care.

Back Seam
The vertical seam at the center of the back of a shoe or boot.
Ball
The padded area of the foot between the big toe and the arch of the foot.

Back Seam
The seam that runs up the back of the shoe.

Balmoral Shoe
A shoe construction featuring a laced “V”-shaped panel across the foot.

Bellows Tongue
A shoe tongue that is attached at both the top and the sides of the shoe.

Blucher
A shoe construction featuring two side flaps of material that are joined across the foot for lacing. This is preferable for adjustability as well as those with a high arch.

Board Lasting
Board lasted shoes have a sturdy insole board running the entire length of the foot bed. This type of construction provides the greatest stability.

Brannock Device
A Device used to measure the length and width of the foot inorder to ensure proper fit.

Break
The natural crease created across the vamp of the shoe from everyday wear.

Box Leather
A type of leather that is dyed on the top layer of the leather only and coated with polyurethane to create a finish that is resilient to spills from liquids.

Buffed Leather
A type of leather where the top surface has been removed using abrasion. This type of leather is often refered to as suede or nubuck.

Bunions
A painful swelling at the base of the big toe, frequently leading to permanent enlargement of the toe joint.

Burnished Leather
The process of buffing the surface to acheive an antiquing effect on the leather.

Calfskin Leather
Leather made from the skins of very young cattle. Among the highest quality of all leathers.

Callus
Hard skin that grows in the area of increased pressure, usually from pressure of a shoe.

Cartilage
Cartilage is a living tissue that lines our joints. It is a matrix of proteins and collagen that is tough, absorbs shock and is very smooth.

Cap Toe
An additional piece of leather covering the toe of a shoe. May be in several different shapes or patterns. Also known as a Tip.

Cemented Construction
A shoe construction in which the upper of the shoe is cemented rather than stitched to the sole of the shoe. Results in a lighter more flexible shoe.

Circumference
The measurement around the shaft of a boot taken at the widest part near the top of the boot shaft.

Cleaning Nubuck Leather
Should be wiped with a cloth dipped in slightly soapy warm water.

Cleaning Patent Leather
Clean with a damp cloth or use a good quality proprietary patent leather spray.

Cleaning Suede Shoes
After removing all dirt when dry, bush up the nap using a rubber or stiff bristled brush.

Combination Last
A footwear last in which the heel is two sizes smaller in width than the widest part of the shoe, producing a shoe with a narrow heel and wide toebox.

Contoured Footbed
An insole that molds to the foot.

Cordovan Leather
Cordovan is a shoe color and most commonly the leather is taken from a horse’s posterior. When the leather is tanned it becomes a rich black cherry color, and as such has evolved into common usage as a color name.

Corn
A small, hard formation usually found on the toe. A corn is usually the result of continuous friction or pressure in one place.

Corrected Grain Leather
A type of leather that has been buffed to remove any blemishes, then covered with an artificial grain using finishes such as pigments, embossing, antiquing, buffing, waxing, waterproofing, etc.

Counter
A stiff piece of material placed at the heel of the shoe between the lining and upper in order to retain the shape of the shoe.

Cushioning
Padding on the insole or outsole of a shoe for added comfort and stabilization.

Distressed Leather
This is another term used for antiqued leather.

D-ring
Plastic or metal eyelets placed along the eyestay which aid in ease of lacing, support and security of fit.

Dorsiflex
To flex the foot upward so the the dorsum (upper surface) approaches nearer to the leg.

Dual Density
Term used to describe some midsole or sole designs. One layer is denser than the other. Denser layer provides stability and softer layers provide cushioning (in running shoes the denser foam is used where the foot would roll).

Embossed Leather
A design that is imprinted onto leather and often simulated exotic skin – i.e., croco or snake. May also be a random pattern.

Eyelet
A hole through which a lace is threaded; may be reinforced with a metal ring or grommet.

Energy Return
Running and athletic shoes, it is the response after the foot strikes the ground, propulsion that helps maintain an effective “gait” or stride.

Eyestay
Reinforcement around the eyelet holes.

Finish
The process by which the final appearance of a shoe is created. The finish can include the application of polish to create a high-gloss finish, or a contrasting polish to create a rub-off finish like “antiquing”.

Flat Foot
A condition in which the arch of the foot is collapsed and the entire foot rests on the ground.

Fibula
The most prominent bone on the outer side of the ankle that also extends to the knee.

Flare
Refers to the width of the heel at the bottom of the outer sole in relation to the width of the heel at the top of the outsole. Increases stability.

Flat Feet
Flat feet (pes planovalgus) can be present from birth (congenital), or develop with time (acquired). Congenital flat foot may be the result of a deformity of one or more bones in the foot, or a failure of the bones to separate during growth before birth (tarsal coalition).

Footbed
Another name for insole, the part of the shoe your foot lies directly on.

Forefoot
The area of the foot between the ball and the toes.
Fracture
A fractured bone is one that has cracked or broken.

Full Grain Leather
The entire thickness of the hide is used to increase durability.

Full Sock
A piece of leather or fabric pasted or kept on the insole of the shoe to cover any grindery and stitching inside the shoe.

Gait
An individuals style of walking.

Goodyear Welt
A shoe construction in which the upper and the sole of the shoe are stitched together resulting in greater durability.

Grain
The pattern of pores and other surface characteristics of the animal concerned, visible on the outer surface of a hide once the hair has been removed.

Grain Leather
Any leather on which the original natural grain has been processed.

Ingrown Toenail
Nails whose corners or sides digs painfully into the skin. They may be caused by improper nail trimming, shoe pressure, injury, fungus infection, heredity, or poor foot structure.

Inseam
The hidden seam of a welted shoe holding together the welt, upper, lining and insole.

Insock
A thin layer of materials put in to the shoe after manufacture to cover the insole.

Insole
The cushioned part of the shoe the foot rests upon.

Instep
The area of the foot between the toes and the ankle, or the top front of the shoe.

High arches
High arches or “pes cavus” is a condition that can be normal or can be problematic. High arches that are problematic are often the result of problems with the way the bones of the foot developed as a child, or sometimes are the result of serious neurological conditions that require treatment.

Hammertoe
Deformity of a lesser toe, usually resulting in a fixed position that can cause significant pain and discomfort with tight shoes. Treatment is by shoe modification or surgery.

Heel spur
“Heel spurs” are commonly used to describe plantar fasciitis.

Heel
Can refer to both the rear, padded area of the underside of the foot, as well as the solid part of a shoe that supports the heel cup.
The standard measure for heel heights is as follows: am 8/8 (low heel) is 1” high a 16/8 (medium heel) is 2” high.

Heel Height
Is measured on a vertical line at the breast of the heel, from the bottom surface of the sole where it meets the heel, to the floor.

Heel Spurs
Soft deposits of calcium that grow on the plantar fascia, a band of tissue that grows along the bottom of the foot.

Hyperidrosis
Excessive sweating of the feet.

Ingrown toenail
As a nail grows in, it may catch at the inside or outside edge of the toe. When the nail begins to cut through the skin, an infection can occur resulting in redness, pain, and pussy discharge.

Kiltie
Decorative fringed tongue over the instep or vamp of the shoe.

Lace Stay
A strip of leather applied to the front of a laced boot or shoe to strengthen and reinforce the eyelets or eyelet holes.

Lace Up Shoes
Any low cut shoe fastened by lacings such as an Oxford or Blucher.

Laces
A strip of material strung through the eyelets of the shoe in order to pull the shoe closed and adjust the girth.

Last
A shape or form. Usually made of wood, that represents the space inside the shoe. It is used to construct the shoe and give it shape.

Ligament – A band of tissue that connects one bone to another, typically to support a joint. Ligaments are made primarily of collagen. Injury to a ligament is referred to as a sprain.

Lyrca/Neoprene
A blend of stretch fabric and neoprene rubber, ideal for a waterproof and sporty soft lining.

Medial
Referring to the inner side (arch) of a shoe.

Mesh
A woven nylon used in upper construction, has excellent breathability.

Metatarsal Bones
Five long bones in the foot that help to move the body forward when walking or running. They form the top slope of the foot.

Midsole
A cushioning layer between the outsole and the upper. Materials may include EVA, PU, compression molded EVA, that absorbs shock and provides stability.

Motion Control
Designs or devices found in athletic shoes that control the inward rolling of the foot.

Nap
Velvety surface of leather or cloth.

Nappa Leather
Sheepskin leather typically less than two years old, more supple than other sheepskins.

Negative Heel
Popular in comfort footwear, a type of footwear with a lowered heel area designed for more natural foot placement.

Nubuck
Is a grain leather that has been slightly brushed on the surface to create a very fine velvet-like appearance.

Orthotic
A corrective device made primarily of leather or plastic which is placed in the shoe to correct biomechanical insufficiencies.

Outsole
The very bottom of the shoe the part that contacts the ground.

Padding
A thin cushion like mass of soft material used to fill, to give shape, or to protect against jarring, scraping or other injury.

Patent Leather
Fine grain leather is specially treated with polyurethane to create an exceptionally gloss finish.

Pebbled Grain Leather
Leather embossed to resemble a bumpy ”pebbled” surface.

Phalanges – Phalanges are the long bones of the fingers or toes. (Plural form of phalanx)

Plantar fasciitis
An inflammation of the plantar fascia. Symptoms are usually pain at the bottom of the heel with the first step in the morning.

Platform
A raised sole (usually ½” or more) within a heel.

Polyurethane Sole
PU Sole is lightweight, flexible, hard wearing and has shock-absorbing qualities.

Pronation
The inward rolling of the foot during running or walking.

Quarter
The complete upper part of the shoe behind the vamp line covering the sides and back part.

Quarter Lining
The lining of the rear part of the shoe, typically made from leather or fabric.

Rim
Is the part of the shoe the foot goes in. It holds the shoe providing lateral stability. Also known as the collar or topline.

Rocker Bottom/Rocker Soles
Rocker soles gently propel you through the gait cycle decreasing lower body fatigue as your feet flow through each step. Curved to complement the angle of a foot in motion, the sole “rocks” the foot from heel-strike through toe-off, reducing the strain of walking on the foot, ankle, toes and metatarsals.

Sprain
An injury causing tearing of a ligament. Sprains vary in severity and can range from a partial tearing of the ligament to a complete rupture.

Sprained ankle
A rupture of one or more of the ligaments that surround the ankle.

Stress Fracture
A crack in a bone resulting from “overuse.” This can occur in athletes who are trying to push their performance to a higher level, or in a non-athlete who suddenly increases the amount of walking in a day.

Scotch Grain
The embossing of leather to create a heavy, pebbled look.

Shank
A strip of steel, fiber, wood or leather inserted between the outsole and the insole at the waist to maintain the curvature of the sole and to keep the heel from going under.

Shearling
Lambskin or sheepskin with its wool still attached.

Shoe Horn
A curved metal or synthetic devise used to aid in slipping the foot into the shoe.

Shoe Last
The form on which a shoe is constructed, may be straight, curved, or semi-curved.

Shoe Tree
Wood or plastic inserted in the shoes when not being worn to maintain shape.

Slide
Shoes with an open toe and back, with a band across the toe.

Sockliner
The inner sole of the shoe, which is usually removable.

Sole Leather
Leather used for the soles of shoes and boots, usually buffalo or ox.

Stiffner
Usually of leather board or fiberboard placed between the lining and upper material at the back of the shoe to improve shape retention of the quarters.

Straight Lasted
A type of last used to create a very straight shoe that helps correct pronation.

Straights
Shoes designed without distinction of right and left so that each can be used on either foot.

Supination
The rolling of the foot outward to the side while running or walking.

Supportive Cushioning Running Shoes
Running shoes with a combination of support and cushioning.

Tendon
A tendon is a structure in the body that connects muscle to bone.

Tendonitis
Inflammation of a tendon. Most cases of tendonitis are caused by some type of injury, overuse or a mechanical abnormality in the foot or ankle.

Throat
The central part of the vamp just proximal to the toe box.

Tibia
The larger, medial bone of the leg that extends from the knee to the ankle.

Toe fracture
A break in one of the bones of the toes or “phalanges.”

Toe Ridge
A horizontal ridge added to the footbed of some sandals to anchor and provide support and cushioning for the toes.

Tread
Design on the shoe’s sole to enhance traction.

Turf toe
A sprain of the great toe joint (metatarsophalangeal joint), usually the result of the toe bending upwards violently. Complete rupture of the structures at the bottom of the joint may require surgery. Lesser injuries can be treated with immobilization and taping.

Upper
The part of the shoe that covers the top part of the foot, from heel to toe.

Vamp
The front center part of a shoe’s upper.

Waist
The section around the feet, last or shoe between ball and instep.

Wedge
The heel is joined to the sole of the shoe, creating a triangular effect.

Welt
The welt is a strip of leather that is sewn to the outside of the bottom part of the uppers and then bent outward and sewn onto the top outside of the sole.

Width
The width of a shoe is typically measured in letters (AAA,AA,A,B,C,D,E,EE,EEE, etc.) and refers to the width of the shoe last as measured at the ball of the foot. Each width increases 1/8” in the actual shoe.